Whitby to Blyth - Day 38

Sunday 9th September 2012 - Whitby to Blyth - Day 38

Approach to Whitby Swing Bridge

We were up at 07.30 to make preparations to leave and go through the bridge at its first opening of the day.  The bridge master opened 1/2 of it at 08.30 as ourselves and one other small yacht passed through.
A quarter of an hour later and we were passing the north cardinal mark with full main, genoa and Popeye (auto-helm) engaged.   Our course was 320 degrees and with a freshing south westerly wind we fitted a preventer to the boom to stop any   occurrence of an accidental gybe.  It was not a steady wind and we kept ourselves amused adjusting the genoa settings and engine revolutions to maintain a speed of around 5 knots.

Bore Song

By the time when reached the southern end of Tees Bay we were past by this new Finnish Ro/Ro vessel Bore Song doing 18 1/2 knots and she was impressive.  For our Sunday lunch we dined on mince and onion pies and beans. The galley oven once more put use, as it had spent most of the time as storage space.  We crossed Tees Bay, passed Sunderland, Souter Point and the Tyne Piers and could see the wind turbines at Blyth when a quarter of an hour away from the piers, the engine high temperature alarm sounded.  The wind had shifted to the north west and heeling over, we had exposed our sea suction and lost the sea water flow into the pump.  The engine was stopped, all sail stowed and the boat was on more of an even keel, sea suction filter checked and pronounced clean.  Engine started and we were off again.

Back home

Amazing how these things happen when you falsely think it is nearly all over.
It took us half an hour to enter the piers and find our way to our home port pontoon.
The 51 miles covered had taken us 10 hours and very pleasing to have achieved our goal.





In conclusion, this was a very satisfying voyage and the inland lakes of Holland are a wonderful cruising area.   The north sea crossings are tiresome but the arrivals make it worthwhile.  For such a poor summer the weather we experienced was very good and not a lot time was lost in trying to hid from it.  The engine problems were our only delay. We had to miss out two of the Frisian islands, I had  hoped to visit.  The marinas are a joy in relation to their UK counterparts, for a start, they are half the price averaging 12 euros a night which includes the electric,  The facilities are excellent and most had designated kids' play areas, barbecue places and a great laundry.
Each town has its own unique architecture and to me the clean narrow winding cobbled streets with the small fronted shops were a delight and I cannot work out how the cobbled roads and pavements have very few weeds growing through them.  Every restaurant we visited had excellent meals and wonderful service with no hassle as to how long you good stay.  The bars were a delight though we could not get away with some places, where they are still allowed to smoke inside the premises.
Amsterdam is a magical city and caters for everyone's  tastes. I was amazed by the number of visitors and most of the time the city centre appeared to be packed and the night life was the biggest attraction.

Facts & Figures:-

Days on board                   38
Total distance miles          940
Hours underway              243
Night hours                        42
Engine hours                    174
Fuel consumption litres     140
Average speed knots        3.9

Crew:- Days on board

Alex Tweddle (skipper)       38
Jack Evans (RNYC)           15        Blyth to Amsterdam
Alfie Dower (RNYC)          11        Blyth to Amsterdam
Bill Smith (Tallships)            15        Amsterdam to Amsterdam
Jack Evans (RNYC)           12        Amsterdam to Blyth
Dave Kirkman (Tallships)     4         Amsterdam to Lowestoft
Dave Durrant (Tallships)       5         Lowestoft to Blyth

Whitby - Day 37

Saturday 8th September 2012 - Whitby - Day 37

Whitby piers from the 199 steps

Today was declared a day of rest and recuperation, to take advantage of the fine weather   and enjoy the delights of Whitby.  Jack decided to finish off the book he had been reading in the quietness of the marina while Dave ventured out to the Captain Cook museum.  After catching up with a little maintenance, I decided in the afternoon, to take a leisurely stroll around the south side of the town.

With the warm sunshine and being a Saturday there was a lot of visitors enjoying the many attractions.  The shops, cafes, bars and boat trips appeared to be doing very well.

Whitby Abbey

On all of my previous visits to Whitby, I have never visited the Abbey which is now a preserved ruin which overlooks the town on the south side of the river.  After crossing the swing bridge you turn left into the narrow cobbled streets with their many shops and hostelries until you come to the bottom of the imposing hill.  Access to the Abbey is by climbing the well trodden 199 steps.  The view from the top is most impressive.  To the north, the view over the town and its beach with the formidable cliffs stretching out along the coast. To the east, the piers with their narrow entrance and the flat blue sea beyond.  To the south the cliff top continuous on to the Whitby High light house, Scarborough and Flamborough Head.  To the west the rolling green fields and small woodlands covering the lush Yorkshire Dales.

Evening

 You really get the impression the ones who built here around the year 650, knew all too well why this was a perfect site for an Abbey.  The inspiration for the Dracula stories and why the Goff's make there pilgrimage to this town.

Back down the steps I met the others in the 'Duke of York' where we enjoyed a meal of a trio of sausages on a bed of mash potatoes.  A walk back along the cobbled street to the 'Black Horse' a very busy old fashioned pub.  The landlord was doing a grand job keeping all of the visitors happy.  Over the bridge and we were back to the 'Station Inn' where once more they had a live twosome, bashing out their version of some of the popular songs.  We made it back on board for midnight after a grand relaxing day.

Lowestoft to Whitby - Days 35; 36

Thursday 6th September 2012 - Lowestoft to Whitby - Day 35

Yarmouth Roads Wind Farm

We left Lowestoft at 10.30 and hoisted the main as soon as we passed the piers and engaged Popeye (auto helm).  We had a south westerly wind and with a preventer fitted to the boom and full genoa, we were making good progress against a foul 2 knot tide.  By 13.00 we were passing Great Yarmouth looking at its many seaside attractions.  An hour later and we were going by the large wind farm on the Scorby sands. These are also occupied by a large colony of grey seals which every now and again one would pop up to have a look at us as we sailed by.

Sunset

The wind was changing in its strength all through the evening and night so we changed sail settings accordingly and for a more comfortable night ended up with 2 reefs in the main and 1/3rd genoa.  We had been told if sailing along the north Norfolk coast you had to have the tide right when passing Bacton, this is where most of the gas and oil pipelines come ashore from the north sea.  If you do not get it right you will just stay there for six hours until the tide changes.  We had a favourable tide with us. The sunset at 19.30, we had passed the Sheringham sand bank and switched on our tricolour navigation light.
At 22.00 we were heading north through the Race channel between two sandbanks and watching out for the other ships as they headed south.  We were closely passed by some of the large ferries running out of Hull but it was very reassuring looking at the lights of another yacht which was following close behind.

Friday 7th September 2012 - Lowestoft to Whitby - Day 36

Skipper at Dawn

It is a great pleasure when sailing at night especially when there are lots to see and do.  The many varied lights and characteristics of the buoys which inform you of the direction you should be taking.  The different size and shapes of the ships as they pass in the night.  The moon light reflecting on a continuously moving sea and the sky filled with stars which you cannot see if living in a light polluted city.  Your own yacht's sounds, twists and turns as she moves through the water giving the impression you are actually going faster.  While down below your fellow crew are hopefully getting some rest and sleep as you take on the responsibility of a safe night passage.

Dave

The engine had to be started at 01.15 as we were losing battery power.  The chart plotter, auto-helm, radio, navigation lights all consume power and this can only be replenished while at sea by running the engine.  At dawn we had crossed the Humber passing through the many large ships at the anchorages and heading across Bridlington Bay to be confronted by another hazard, namely lobster pots.  These are laid by the local fisherman mostly out of Bridlington but the marks which float above the pots are connected by a rope but not marked by a flag.  They are only balls either coloured orange or white and are very difficult to spot until you are almost on them.  If you get caught up on one they are very difficult to entangle and it normally ends up with calling out the lifeboat and being towed into port.

Flamborough Head

For a short while we were becalmed off Flamborough Head while the wind sorted itself out and started blowing from a north westerly direction.  This was not a good direction for us and Scarborough for a while looked like a good option for the night but it was discounted as we decided to press on.  At 19.30 the sunset as we put on our navigation steaming lights and at 20.00 we were passing the Whitby High lighthouse.  Whitby is very critical, to make the swing bridge before the marina, as it only opens two hours either side of high water.  A VHF call to bridge control confirmed we were ok for the 9 o clock bridge opening.  Once established which was the correct entrance through the piers we made our way into the river, moved quickly through the half-opened bridge and the harbour master was waiting to tied us up at the marina.   We had travelled 159 miles in 36 hours.  A quick shower and we were in the 'Station' pub at 22.15 and the beer tasted good, they had live entertainment on and we reflected on our trip which had taken us a little further north and nearer to home.

Lowestoft - Day 34

Wednesday 5th September 2012 - Lowestoft - Day 34

Hamilton Dock

Dave Kirkman left in the morning to catch his train home and thank you once more for time and effort in the crossing from Holland.  The marina in Lowestoft at Hamilton dock was very quiet and we were informed there had very few visiting yachts this season.  The poor weather being the main reason.  The main activity here appears to be the wind farm work boats taking pesonnel out in the morning and returning in the evening.
We went shopping in the nearby Wilkinsons and Tescos before meeting up with the next crew member.  Dave Durrant (Tallships) had caught the train from Newcastle and we met as he walked out from the station.

Lifting Bridge

The main marina is further up the river and we had been recommended to go there for a meal.  Unfortunately being a nice evening we decided to walk there, over the river at the lifting bridge and follow the river.  As we became lost a taxi pulled up and after asking directions we decided to forget the exercise and drive to the restaurant.  'The Third Crossing' is a delight and if you like fish there is fine selection and a pick your own lobster from a large display tank. We declined the offer and enjoyed rib-eye steaks and paella.  The taxi took us back to the 'Harbour Inn' where they refused to serve us after 22.40, so it was goodbye to them as we walked back to the dock up a now deserted high street.

North Sea Crossing - Days 32; 33

Monday 3rd September 2012 - Ijmuiden to Lowestoft - Day 32

We left our box at 10.00 and went round to the fuelling berth and took on 40 litres of diesel before moving out of the marina and into the river, where we hoisted our mainsail and engaged Popeye (auto-helm).  We were passing the outer piers and into the north sea at 11.30.

Solina

The conditions for us were very good with a south west wind of force 2 and a flat sea, sunny, warm and very good visibility.  There are large yellow buoys marking the big ship channel every 2 1/2 miles and extend out as far as 25 miles westwards.  These are ideal to follow though you have to take account of the cross current taking you north or south.  About 5 miles out from the piers on either side of the channel there were a lot ships at anchor.  One of which was the 'Solina' a Polish ship which passed across our bows on her way to the anchorage.

North Sea Sunset

We were running with the engine and experimenting with the genoa as the wind shifted gradually more westwards.  Keeping a careful watch on the amount of water coming in from our leaking stern gland and pumping the water out with our now very efficient bilge pump every hour to an hour and a half.  At 20.15 we put on our navigation steaming lights and the sunset at 20.30, the wind died away and we dropped the main sail at 21.00.  At 22.30 we were passing the west cardinal mark 65 miles from Ijmuiden.  Around midnight the wind picked up from the south west and we hoisted the mainsail.


Tuesday 4th September 2012 - Ijmuiden to Lowestoft - Day 33

Sailing at night is very rewarding in conditions where you have a flat sea with a very gentle swell.  Good visibility with a clear star lit sky and 3/4 moon.

Dave

During the day we were working a watch system of 3 hours on and 6 hours off.  While from midnight to six in the morning it was 2 hours on and 4 hours off.  Linked into the yachts chart plotter there is an AIS (automatic identification system) which plots all ships over 500 tons.  You place the plotter cursor onto the now plotted small triangle and it gives you the name of the ships its course and speed, what will be its close point to you and at what time, plus its identification call sign and unique MMSI number if you want to call them up.  The added bonus being the VHF radio is also linked into all of this.  No idea how it works, as it is all white man's magic to me, but it sure gives you a lot of confidence, when you start seeing the lights of any ship and you know instantly what it is doing.

Alex

The sun came up at 06.30, unfurled the genoa and we even stopped the engine at 07.00.  The pictures show us at dawn and how we were dressed for the night crossing.
After two hours we had to restart the engine as the wind dropped and we were beginning to pick out the Norfolk coastline.
We picked up the East Newcombe buoy and make our over the sandbanks at high water on our approach to Lowestoft.
The harbour control gave us to permission to enter and we on the pontoon at Hamilton dock by 13.30.  We had made it across, travelling 105 miles in 26 hours.  It had been a much more comfortable crossing than our outward journey.

We were ashore in the Harbour Inn at 18.30 drinking very good Boddingtons but were bit disappointed by the fish and chips.  A visit to the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk yacht club cheered us up as we were made welcome and enjoyed the well documented history of this club with all of its fine furniture and memrobilia.  A walk back through the town found it very quiet and back on board for 23.00 but at least we were back in the UK.

Amsterdam to Ijmuiden - Day 31

Sunday 2nd September 2012 - Amsterdam to Ijmuiden - Day 31

At 09.00 went to the ferry and station where I met the new crew member Dave Kirkman (Tallships) who had caught the overnight ferry from Harwich to the Hook of Holland, then train to Rotterdam and onto Amsterdam.

New Amsterdam Marina

We left the Aeolus marina at 11.30 and encountered no problems passing the busiest and narrowest part of the canal past the station as we headed westward along the Nordzee canal.  On the north side of the canal just before you arrive at the shipyard, they have built this new marina which officially opens next month.  As we passed, there were lots of new motor cruisers and yachts in preparation for a boat show.  I presume when it is up and running, there will be a ferry service across to the station as Amsterdam's transport system is very efficient.

Ex deep sea Holland

We found the 13 km long canal very quiet for a Sunday afternoon.  There was of course some of the large commercial barges, very few leisure boats though we were passed by the very well preserved ex sea going tug 'Holland' which was doing day trips up and down the canal.
We arrived at the Kleinsluis lock at 14.20 and waited for 3/4 hour until there was enough boats in there for us to lock out.  It is only a mile further along and we were in our box a the Ijmuiden sea port marina.
Ashore using there excellent facilities and taking advantage of their washers and driers got all of the laundry out of the way.
At 19.00 we went to the 'Pan & Cook' which we had used before for a meal of weiner schnitzels, pork satay, chips and salad which was very nice.  The other eating and drinking places in this area were all closed by 22.00 as the sailing season is coming to an end, so we came back on board for an early night and wondered about our forthcoming north sea crossing.

Enkhuizen to Amsterdam - Day 30

Saturday 1st September 2012 - Enkhuizen to Amsterdam - Day 30

Harnessing the wind

We left Enkhuizen at 09.30 and in the Navidad lock a quarter of an hour later. By 10.30 we were under full sail and heading south down the Markenmeer.  It was a fine day and lots of boats were out on the water taking advantage of the weather.  Lots of races were going on in different parts including one which involved the traditional barges which look so impressive compared to their modern counterparts

Party time on the water

An unusual boat we saw is this one in the photograph of people enjoying themselves in this boat covered in the national flag and ballons which kept floating off.  By 16.00 we had made our to the bottom of the Markenmeer and passed through the lifting bridge and moved onto the lock.
This was entertainment on a grander scale as it was a Saturday. When most boat charter companies handed over their boats to the new holiday makers and most appear by their actions to be new to boating.

Oranjesluizen lock

They pack as many leisure boats into the lock as possible.  These first timers trying to fend off other boats, tying up to the lock wall or other boats, with a lot shouting from others.  We just smile in encouragement and the look of amazement on their faces when they eventually stop the boat from moving is very satisfying.  When the lock gate opens they all go charging out, pass us with a friendly wave to our British flag and I hope they all enjoy their holiday.  They all looked as they were heading for the Sixhaven marina so we re-entered the Aeolus marina and lay alongside their quieter pontoons.
Time for a bit of maintenance, the stern tube was packed with grease and the fuel tank topped up.  Jack went off to the ferry and the delights of the big city while I carried on with this blogsite and at 23.00 went to the nearest bar 'Cafe T Eitje'.  I had been here two years previous on the Tallship for the five day Sail Amsterdam Festival and we used this bar every night.  It was good to see the Owner again as we chatted about the old times and what the future held for us both.  She said the bar is now up for sale and the local Dutch have moved away to be replaced by immigrants, so she is looking forward to retirement and I wish them well and will pass on her regards to all the sailors who had been well looked after two years ago.