Oudeschild to Monnickendam - Day 22

Friday 24th August 2012 - Oudeschild to Monnickendam - Day 22

The weather forecast for the weekend was very bad and my plans of visiting the other two Frisian Islands of Vlieland and Terschelling were abandoned.

Waddenzee control sluices on the dyke

It was decided to head back into the inland sea for  shelter and the harbour master gave us the best times to leave and make the most use of the flood tide.
We left Oudeschild at 08.00 against the tide for 1/2 hour and by 09.00 we were back in the main channel heading south easterly passed the uncovered sands of the Balgzand to the south.
Once more we quickly moved along with the 3 knot current and did not have to wait for the swing bridge at Den Oever and straight into the Stevinsluizen lock.  By 11.00 we were leaving the lock and back into the Ijsselmeer.  With full main and the auto-helm in charge.

De Kreupel

At 12.00 a Dutch yacht came alongside and asked if I had map of the lake, if not he would help.  This was a very kind gesture, as I showed him my full set of charts, he gave a friendly wave and move off in another direction.  At 13.30 we were passing the man made island of De Kreupel about two miles out from Medemblik.  Why it was built I do not know but there appears to be two buildings on it.  We were making very good progress down the Ijsselmeer and it was decided not to stay for the night in Enkhuizen but to push on while we still had good weather.

Day tripper

Nearing Enkhuizen we passed a few of these beautiful sailing barges which take visitors out for the day.  While others do one week voyages and mostly cater for the German tourists.  We were in the Navidad lock for 15.20 and back into the Markenmeer by 15.45.  With the auto-helm and full sail for a couple of hours we had a very pleasant run.  It was now decided we would go to Monnickendam for a couple of nights while we let the weather fronts pass through.

Markenmeer

In the evening the wind died away completely, all sails were stowed and with a sea of glass we motored into the Gouzee.  Off the entrance we saw a fleet of becalmed yachts waiting to start a 24 hour race, we wished them luck and hoped they would enjoy it.  We followed another channel after passing our old haunt in Volendam and by 20.00 we were in our box at the Monnickendam marina.

Monnickendam

We went ashore to the bars and restuarants but did not fancy a meal.  Wandering back to the near marina Lakeside Hotel, I found this had not changed in 10 years.  It was still a stop over for people flying back to Australia and enjoying there last night in Europe, knocking back lots of beer accompanied by boom-boom music.  We left them to it. On board we had our own fruity malt loaf and beer.  It had been a long day, travelled 51 miles but we were now alongside and safe.

Den Oever to Oudeschild - Day 21

Thursday 23rd August 2012 - Den Oever to Oudeschild - Day 21

We had breakfast of corned beef hash and eggs and taking the advice of the harbour master we did not leave until 12.30.

Sailing Barge

As we left the marina we watched as this very impressive sailing barge hauled up her sails for her trip down the Ijsselmeer.  The locks were not quite ready for us but there are convenient lay by berths prior to the lock and because of the wind conditions.We put a bow rope on the quay and let her sit there with her nose into the wind.  We lay there for about 1/2 hour with other yachts then the lock traffic lights changed for red to green and we were ready to go.

Stevinsluizen lock

We were in the lock for 15 minutes and followed this large barge ahead of us into the next waiting area for the swing bridge.  We were a little too slow and the bridge keeper changed the lights to red when were very close to passing through.  Onto another lay by while we waited, after ten minutes the bridge swung open for a fast moving lifeboat and we were allowed through.  A little further on in the fairway we saw the lifeboat alongside a 38 foot yacht whose engine must of failed and was drifting onto the shore.  We are now in the Waddenzee and are now under the influence of tidal movements with strong currents within the area.

Oudeschild - Texel

We followed the very well marked channel known as the Gat Van De Stier, with a 3 knot ebb tide. In parts we had wind over the tide which gave very short steeped waves and became very uncomfortable.  It took 1 1/2 hours up this channel before we altered course off Den Helder and cut across the current before going into the next channel Texelstroom with the current against us.  After another 3/4 hour we were arriving at the Frisian Island of Texel and berthed in the Waddenhaven marina in Oudeschild.  Out with the cold beer we achieved one of our goals.

Havenhotel Texel

We were ashore in this very busy fishing harbour by 18.30 in the 'Havenhotel Texel'.  Prior to our meal we were given a little starter of a small bowl of tiny shrimps with a dip in sauce.  Too much hassle shelling these, so we gave up while a main course of a very large pot of mussels, chips and bread was absolutely delicious.  We adjourned to the bar and speaking with the staff asked what it was like in the hotel in the winter with all of the visitors gone.  The answer was no work, as we were shown a photograph of the hotel with the sea water covering the first floor windows.  This also explained the large dyke surrounding the harbour and the large quayside posts for the boats to tie up to with their tops painted white. Bill went back aboard while I went to the new marina pub 'Compagnie' which was not there when I was last here 10 years ago. It was a lively place and after a night cap returned aboard, it had been another successful day.

Enkhuizen to Den Oever - Day 20

Wednesday 22nd August 2012 - Enkhuizen to Den Oever - Day 20

We had breakfast of croissants and tea and left Enkhuisen at 11.30 with a westerly wind force 4 to 5.
At 12.00 we were passing the fairway buoy with 2/3 rds genoa and fifteen minutes later full genoa and running in a north westerly direction.

Den Oever Marina

The engine stopped at 12.30 and we were making our best course to the north and slowly being pushed into the middle of the Ijsselmeer.  The wind was gusting up to force 6 and building up short choppy waves which was making steering more difficult and uncomfortable with occasional spray making it into the cockpit.  At 14.00 hoisted the main with 2 reefs and with shortened genoa we made more progress but had to tack round for 1/2 hour to miss a shallow bank.
Just prior to the sea lock at Den Oever there is a marina and we decided to give up and stay there for the night and wait for conditions to improve before heading for the Frisian Islands.
We were in  our box at 17.15 and shelter and the harbour master gave all the information required for the next day.

De Dikke Restaurant

Bill before leaving Enkhuizen had prepared a corn beef hash which was promptly put into the oven on arrival and it was very tasty with a topping of beans.  At 21.00 we went ashore to the marina restaurant 'De Dikke Bries' where about two dozen other yachties were dining.  We stuck to the refreshments while we took in the bric a brac which engulfed the interior and gave the place a lot of character.  They stopped serving at 23.00 and as we made it back aboard the wind had dropped.  It had been hard sailing day.

Hoorn to Enkhuizen - Day 19

Tuesday 21st August 2012 - Hoorn to Enkhuizen - Day 19

Elisabeth

We left Hoorn at 12.00 and hoisted the main at 12.45, there was very little wind so we motor-sailed.  An hour later and we were passing this fine  sailing vessel 'Elisabeth' on her way into Hoorn.

At 14.00 we entered the main buoyed channel which takes you up to the locks which connect the Markenmeer and the Ijsselmeer across which stretches a very long dam connecting both sides of Holland.

Naviduct Lock

We arrived in the lock at 14.45 and the gates closed behind us and we were only inside for about ten minutes as the water level only dropped about 100 mm.  We arrived in Enkhuizen Compagnieshaven and in or box at 15.15.
On the passage up from Hoorn we had noticed water coming into the engine compartment bilge space and traced this to a leaking stern gland.  The electric bilge pump fitted last year was not up to job of pumping it out.

Enkhuizen

I packed the stern gland with grease while Bill went off to his favourite shop the chandlers and purchased more grease and a new bilge pump. The new pump was fitted and it was time to go ashore.

This is a very pretty town with lots of fine buildings built during the days when this was one of the main trading ports on the Zuiderzee.

Bill's bridge

We found a wonderful restaurant called 'Van Bleiswijk' and a meal of onion soup, plaice fillets and beef satays really filled us up.  The local Irish bar 'The Dubliners' was small and noisy while upstairs in the 'Schiffdifj' was nice but smoky.  Most of them seemed to be smoking inside the pub, we cannot understand this as we are all supposed to adhere to the EU regulations on smoking in public places.  We finished off in the 'Tankerikj' pub next to the very impressive now lit up tower and lifting bridge.  We were very impressed with Enkhuizen

Volendam to Hoorn - Day 18

Monday 20th August 2012 - Volendam to Hoorn - Day 18

In the office at 09.00 still no spare parts, Bill went to the shop and made breakfast, I plodded on with the blogsite.

New parts fitted

At 11.30 the parts were hand delivered and we had a cup of tea to celebrate.
Between 12.00 and 14.00 we fitted the new exhaust pipe elbow with flexible from the thermostat.  A new stop solenoid was fitted and a successful engine trial was completed.
We said our goodbyes to the marina staff who had really looked after us over the past five days.

At 14.45 we left Volendam with the full genoa unfurled at 15.00 and passing GZ2 buoy hoisted the full main and popeye (auto-helm)  engaged.

At 15.30 the engine was stopped and we were sailing, at last.

Hoorn

The wind from the west force 3 to 4 and on a beam reach with a calm sea we were making 5 to 5 1/2 knots and in the warm sunshine it was most satisfying.
At 17.30 were in our box in Hoorn and informed by the harbour master it was the last day of the town's fair and most of youngsters were on the drink.
We went ashore at 19.30 to find all of the pubs and restaurants which I knew were all closed.  Bill could not believe I had brought him to a port with no pubs.

When we arrived at the town square it was a mess, there was discarded plastic mugs everywhere.  While all chairs had been removed to  inside the bars and the music was once again too much for us.  The fair ground was shutting down as we looked for somewhere to find refreshment and found a hotel with comfortable chairs outside where they actually served beer in a proper glass.  They told us the town was shut down between 16.00 and 20.00 to allow the place to be cleaned up after the fair.
Strolling back to the harbour we found a very friendly bar open and had an excellent conversation with the locals and dined again on toasties.  We were back on board just after midnight and pleased we had made another port and enjoyed the company of the local inhabitants.

Volendam - Days 14;15;16;17

Thursday 16th August 2012 - Volendam - Day 14

Prior to the arrival of the engine spare parts we slackened back the exhaust pipe nuts and clips and cleaned out all of the engine compartment.  At the nearby chandlers, purchased a boom tent and bungees, these cost more than the tent, where is Wilkinsons when you need one.

Tugboat, Jack, Alex

At 18.00 we went ashore to the local restaurant 'Pieterman's' and had beers on the terrace until 20.00, then we went inside for a meal. It consisted of home made soups, steaks and mussels.  The biggest amount of spare ribs you have ever seen and these could not be finished.  The waiter knew and brought a doggy bag.
We finished off in the boom-boom bar 'Nautico' next door and were back on board for 23.30 having survived our first day's wait.


Friday 17th August 2012 - Volendam - Day 15

Boom Tent

Awake at 05.15 and went ashore with Jack to catch the 06.00 bus to Amsterdam station and the 07.20 train to the airport.  For me it was back to bed.  At 09.00 checked at the marina office if the spares had arrived. but they had not.
The weather was warming up and the boom tent came into its own, as it kept the temperature down in the cabin.

Windmill

I went to do the laundry in the excellent facilities and while waiting for the washer and drier to do its stuff, I sat on a nearby park bench looking over the windmill and read my book on the Frisian Islands.  Bill went to his favourite shop the chandlers then had our afternoon nap.

At 18.00 we tried to get into the posher 'Borkkum' restaurant near to the marina but they said they were fully booked, strange as there was only a dozen people in there, obviously they did not encourage beer drinkers. So it was back to the 'Pieterman' and 'Nautico' for beer and toasties.

Saturday 18th August 2012 - Volendam - Day 16

Volendam Harbour

Bill went to the supermarket then we had a cooked breakfast of eggs, bacon and tomatoes.  At the office still no sign of the spares.  It was very hot with a cloudless sky the temperature was 32 degrees.  We lazied around, sleeping, reading, getting to grips with the blogsite.  There was a welcome relief when the girls from the  marina came round with cool bags and handed out ice lollies which was very much appreciated.

At 18.15 we went on our 15 minute walk to the old town and found 'Gerrie's' air conditioned bar and what a relief.  Here we met a Scottish protestant minister and some character, as he related his stories of his 8 years spent in Holland.  We moved onto the harbour which was absolutely heaving with youngsters having a great time drinking and smoking happy baccy.  The noise coming from some of the bars was deafening but we were not to out done and found 'Motje' an excellent place.  The staff gave us a running commentary on the town while the karoke was starting to get into swing.  These Dutch people certainly know how to enjoy life and we left them to it around midnight after having a great evening out.

Sunday 19th August 2012 - Volendam - Day 17

Volendam

It was once more very hot and sultry and being Sunday there was no delivery of spares.
At 14.00 we went into town to the main supermarket then down to the harbour where again it was full of visitors.  The boat trips, souvenir shops, bars and restaurants were all very busy.  We went back to our air conditioned bar 'Gerrie's' where our Scottish minister was recovering from his previous night excesses, a very funny wee man.  We went for fish and chips before ending up in 'Motje's'.  We got there for 19.30 and the entertainment consisted of two alternative singers and they were very good.  The old time music was none stop and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.  The happy go lucky atmosphere was great as we warmed to all in there and joined in the fun.  We being sensible decided to call it a day at 22.00 and returned to the marina just before the thunder and lightening started.  We hoped it would pour down but there was only light thundery showers which did clear the air just a little bit.

Volendam to Edam to Volendam - Day 13

Wednesday 15th  August 2012 - Volendam - Edam - Volendam - Day 13

In the morning we completed some of the latest maintenance jobs, lubricated the engine control bowden cables.  The fuel tank replenished and fuel purchased. At the local chandlers purchased the charts I needed for the Frisian Islands also a new switch for the fridge and fitted.  Jack's flights were sorted out on the marina office computer.

At 12.45 we left Volendam on passage for Edam which was only 2 mile away.  It is shallow around this area and we kept to the channel with the entrance to Edam very narrow it is tricky but once inside we managed to find a berth next to a small cafe.

Rigged engine stop

Unfortunately, the engine would not stop on the key switch due to the stop solenoid being burnt out.  Not wanting to stop by shutting off the fuel and having to reprime, the ofending solenoid was removed and with a stick managed to stop the engine.  From the photo can be seen how the stick was slashed for a permanent look until a new one could be obtained.

Crack in engine exhaust

While working on the stop it was noticed we had developed a rather large crack in the exhaust pipe elbow, and not wanting to travel far in this condition a few decisions had to be made.
A phone call to the Bukh engine agents in the UK, we ordered up a new exhaust and stop solenoid with delivery up to three days.  We made a decision to return to Volendam with a safe berth, phoning the marina to book a place and await the parts.
It was a hot day and we used the cafe on the quay sitting on a bench opposite Selene eating an ice-cream while we contemplated how this was going to effect our holiday.

We were back in Volendam by 17.30 not going ashore until 21.00 the local restaurant stopped serving so we had beer and crisps.  Next door in the now quiet boom-boom bar we finished off with beer and toasties.
It had not been a good day